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By Cait BazemoreCait Bazemore
Cait Bazemore's Most Recent Stories
Armin Strom, Panerai, Moser
When brands unveil new models at a major moment, be it a trade show like or a milestone anniversary, there tends to be a lot of fanfare. What I love about the new cadence of introducing models just because is the breadth of watches we see month over month. Take May for instance: Alongside a thoroughly modern concept watch from IWC we have the revival of a Gerald Genta design, and next to a diver made from sustainable materials we have a stunning métiers d’art timepiece. As the summer continues, I can only hope we’ll continue to see the technical and creative artistry on display in these nine incredibly cool watches that dropped in May.
IWC Pilots Watch Chronograph 41 Ceralume Concept Watch
Yes, it’s just a concept watch (for now), but it’s a huge milestone worth mentioning when it comes to the latest releases in the watch world. With its Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Ceralume, IWC debuts its proprietary luminous ceramic technology. Thanks to a patent-pending process achieved by mixing ceramic powders with high-grade Super-LumiNova pigments, the brand has created the first-ever fully luminous ceramic watch case. During initial tests, the Ceralume technology emitted a bright blueish light for more than 24 hours. The concept watch also features a dial and strap enhanced with Super-LumiNova pigments for a fully-lumed construction top to bottom.
Credor Locomotive
When you think of the beloved Gerald Genta, you most likely picture the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak or the Patek Philippe Nautilus. However, Genta worked with a broad range of brands, including Seiko. Genta’s original Locomotive dates back to 1979, crafted for Credor, a high-end subset of Seiko founded just five years prior in 1974. The sport model, with its geometric bezel and integrated bracelet, is undeniably Genta, effortlessly exuding the legend’s signature design language. The Locomotive became one of the best-known timepieces in the Credor catalog, but was mostly known by collectors of obscure timepieces—until now. The reimagined Locomotive gets a lightweight titanium build, as opposed to the original stainless steel. Of course, the model also houses an updated movement, Credor’s automatic caliber CR01. $12,000
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Sapphire Purple
Armin Strom’s latest release is independent watchmaking at its finest. It seamlessly marries function and form with a patented new caliber and a gorgeous guilloche mainplate crafted by the hand of one of the most talented watchmakers on the planet, Kari Voutilainen. The Gravity Equal Force Sapphire Purple offers ultimate precision as the first automatic watch with an equal-force transmission integrated into the mainspring barrel, patented by Armin Strom. Here, the power reserve indicator forms part of the barrel, which is entirely visible from the dial side at four o’clock, just below the micro-rotor (near one o’clock) and the exposed gear train (at three o’clock). This brings us to the showpiece of the watch: the dial. Its base plate features a guilloche engraved motif with a barley grain pattern, handcrafted in Kari Voutilainen’s atelier using a traditional rose engine lathe. The design is complete with a splash of purple applied through a 3D PVD process. $28,900
Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Rose Gold Sage Green
I had the privilege of getting a sneak peek at Girard-Perregaux’s newest addition to its iconic Laureato lineup back in April, and it’s stunning. We also added this beauty to our Best Sports Watches of 2024. Accolades abound. Over the Laureato’s nearly fifty-year history, we’ve seen a number of iterations in green from the brand’s collaborations with Aston Martin to the bold gran feu enamel dial of the Eternity Edition. With the latest “sage” variation, we get a totally new take on the hue with a more subdued green rendered in the model’s signature Clous de Paris motif. The depth of the dial pattern creates the perfect play of light while the choice of a rose gold build brings out the warmth of this unique shade of sage green—which is rather on trend, in fact. $51,900
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One ‘Precious Flowers’
While the iconic Reverso was built for utility, its unique case design has long served as a backdrop for horological works of art. Jaeger-LeCoultre has taken full advantage of this blank canvas over the years with collections like its ‘Precious Flowers’ series, which brings together fine watchmaking, artistic crafts, and high jewelry. The latest additions offer a rose gold construction showcasing champlevé enamel work, gold-leaf paillonnage, and gem-setting. The original Reverso hailed from 1931, and the new ‘Precious Flowers’ models draw from the era with Tropical Art Deco designs setting the trademark architectural elements against the backdrop of lush vegetation and colorful flowers. The resulting works of art—Birds of Paradise, Hibiscus Enamel, and Hibiscus Diamonds—are the product of months of collaborative work between the craftsmen in JLC’s Métiers Rares atelier. Price upon request.
Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton OPS
Ulysse Nardin has a rich history of divers and a proven track record of paving the way when it comes to the development of new materials. The new Diver X Skeleton OPS epitomizes the brand’s work in these areas, offering a tactical design built from sustainable materials. Here, you get a beautifully rendered skeletonized dial thanks to UN’s automatic UN-372 movement, featuring an oversized oscillator and the brand’s signature silicon escapement. The design showcases a number of Carbonium components—namely the unidirectional rotating bezel and the barrel cover at twelve o’clock. This cutting-edge material not only offers an exceptional strength-to-lightness ratio but also has a 40% lower impact on the environment than traditional carbon composites. The model is complete with a green fabric strap partly made from upcycled fishing nets. $27,500
H. Moser Streamliner Centre Seconds Purple Haze
H. Moser’s Streamliner is arguably one of the most versatile and highly wearable sport watches on the market. Yet, despite is utilitarian design, the brand has never hesitated to create playful dials, from enamel to jade, fumé and more. For the most recent additions to the Streamliner family, Moser offers two bold fumé dials: the original “green dragon” and this new “purple haze.” In addition to the striking new color, the brand has enhanced the design with a transparent lacquer logo serving as a secret signature, and Moser also has upgraded the movement with the new self- winding caliber HMC 201. Compared to the previous HMC 200, the 201 offers a wider opening to the mechanism through partially skeletonized bridges. This opening along with the beveled rotor allows the gear train, central seconds and bidirectional automatic winding system wheels to be on full display. $24,084
MB&F LM Sequential Flyback Platinum
It may be hard to believe that MB&F only launched its first chronograph two years ago. The LM Sequential EVO offered a new approach to the classic complication as a “twin chronograph” allowing multiple timing modes. The model was an instant success, winning the coveted Aiguille d’Or at the GPHG. Now, the brand continues this lineage with an all-new flyback variation. The design comes from Stephen McDonnell, one of the original MB&F Friends, as well as the mastermind behind the 2015 LM Perpetual and the original LM Sequential EVO. This new model features the same layout as the LM Sequential EVO with two chronograph displays, each of which can be started, stopped, and reset completely independently of the other. With the addition of the new flyback function, the reset pushers also trigger the flyback if the corresponding chronograph is running. $218,000
Panerai Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT
Since its release, Panerai’s Luminor has been paving the way for purpose-built dive watches for 75 years. The newer Luminor Complicazioni subset places further emphasis on the model’s technical capabilities, incorporating functions like a chronograph, GMT, and other complications. With functionality at the center, the showpiece of this model is the P.2003 caliber. This movement marks the first automatic caliber developed by Panerai within its Manufacture in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, and it notably offers an impressive power reserve of ten days, this proudly displayed on the dial by a linear power reserve indicator. Of course, complementing the power reserve is the GMT function, making this watch ideal for divers looking to take their expeditions around the globe. $15,200
Read More On:
- Armin Strom
- Girard-Perregaux
- Jaeger-LeCoultre
- Panerai
- Ulysse Nardin
- Watch Collector
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